WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en

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So, let’s say you’re considering an electric car

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but you don’t know what living with one might be like or what you might need to keep it charged up.

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You’ve landed on the right video!

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I’ll be covering the ins-and-outs
of living with and charging EVs in 2022,

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from what chargers are out there for home use,

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how to choose the right one based on your needs, vehicle, and situation,

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what traveling long-distance is like now and what needs to be improved,

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and what hiccups to look out for particularly in cold weather.

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This will be a largely US-centric conversation,
especially when we talk about stuff like volts, amps, and

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miles... per gallon... of gasoline,

00:00:39.297 --> 00:00:41.891
but the broad strokes apply no matter where you are.

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My goal here is for you to have a fairly complete
understanding of electric cars

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so you can make the most educated and rational choices
for your personal needs.

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Before we get started, you’ve probably already
noticed that this video is…

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quite long.

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I want this video to answer as many questions
and concerns as someone entirely unfamiliar with electric cars might have,

00:01:04.985 --> 00:01:06.818
and all in one place.

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So there’s a lot of information here.

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Chapter markers are there to help you move around.

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But I want to stress that in day-to-day life,
I’m not thinking about any of this stuff!

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I simply plug in my car and walk away, and in the morning it’s full again.

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Although it takes my car several hours to charge,

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I spend seconds plugging it in and it charges while I'm asleep.

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That means I actually spend much less time refueling compared to negotiating a gas pump transaction every week or two.

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I can tell you with absolute certainty that
I would never go back to a gas-powered car.

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An EV is simply much more convenient and easier
to live with when you can charge it at home.

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And I know not everyone can do that right now.

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That’s something we need to work on.

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But if you can, here’s the situation in a nutshell:

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If you drive the typical average distance daily, a regular household outlet
might actually meet your needs.

00:02:02.866 --> 00:02:08.437
And if you need or want a little more power,
don’t assume you’ll need an electrical service upgrade;

00:02:08.437 --> 00:02:14.116
a basic 20A 240V circuit can easily
cover very long commute distances

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- up to 100 miles - every day, charging only overnight.

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And any car can plug into any charger of any capacity -

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don’t chase the fastest charging
speed a car supports unless you really need it.

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How do you know if you really need it?

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Well, do I have a video for you!

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It’s… it’s this one.

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♫ Music ♫

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With that, we need to start with the basics,

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and I mean the really basic core tenet of everything: energy.

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How much energy does an electric car use?

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How much can it store in its battery pack?

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How far will that take you?

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And how long does it take to replenish that used energy?

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For a while I was struggling
with how to begin answering these questions -

00:03:03.480 --> 00:03:10.171
electric vehicles require different thinking
than what you might be used to and as we go on you’ll see why.

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But, well I kinda forgot that we can in fact translate most concepts from a combustion vehicle to an EV.

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Since more of you are familiar with those than EVs, let’s start with this:

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the battery pack is the new gas tank, and the kilowatt-hour is the new gallon.

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An electric car’s battery pack doesn’t have a capacity in gallons, of course, but it does have a capacity.

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Rather than giving that capacity in volume of a liquid chemical concoction,

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we define its capacity in raw energy terms.

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Energy. It makes the world go ‘round!

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But what is it really?

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This section is going to feel like we’re deep in the weeds but it’s fundamental to understanding how charging works.

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First, you need to understand the difference between power and energy.

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This trips a lot of folks up because it’s a bit confusing.

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You probably have a general sense
of how much power things in your life use,

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for instance light bulbs are given a wattage.

00:04:11.170 --> 00:04:16.073
The watt, though, is a unit of instantaneous power, not energy.

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Quantifying energy from power requires a time component,

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and in the realm of electricity we use the watt-hour.

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Watt-hours are what they sound like.

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It’s simply the average power draw in watts
that occurs over a period of one hour.

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As an example, a 10 watt light bulb that has run for 1 hour
will have consumed 10 watt-hours of energy.

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When you change the power level,
you change the speed at which energy is consumed.

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A more powerful light bulb will burn through energy more quickly.

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For instance a one hundred watt light bulb only needs to run for six minutes
to have consumed the same 10 watt-hours

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as our 10 watt bulb does over an hour.

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It uses 10 times as much power, so the same total
energy use is reached in one tenth the time.

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Watt-hours are pretty small, though, so when
talking about electrical energy

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we usually use the kilowatt-hour - which is just
one thousand watt-hours.

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Your electric utility probably bills you in this unit.

00:05:18.712 --> 00:05:23.704
And the battery pack capacity of an electric car is given in kilowatt-hours.

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Battery-electric vehicles on the market today (meaning those which are purely electric, not hybrid powertrains)

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usually have battery packs of at least 30 kilowatt-hours,
though 50+ is more typical in the US market.

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Many models are available with different pack sizes to choose from,

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for instance my car - a Hyundai Ioniq 5 - can be had with either a 58 kWh pack
in its base configuration,

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or a 77.4 kWh pack, the size I have.

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Of note, right now, car manufacturers tend to be a little vague

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on whether the figure they give their battery packs is the pack’s
actual capacity or a usable capacity.

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See, to prolong battery life most cars only give
you access to a certain range of the pack’s charge levels.

00:06:11.497 --> 00:06:15.803
It puts more wear and tear on a battery cell when you push it to its extremes,

00:06:15.803 --> 00:06:23.458
so somewhat typical is for a 100% indicated charge
to really be something like a 95% charge,

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and when the battery is “dead” at an indicated 0%,
 it’s really more like 5% charged still.

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To be clear, this is a good practice!

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But I wish every manufacturer would give distinct gross and usable capacity metrics for their battery packs

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so we can understand how much they’re pushing the cells.

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For what it’s worth, many EVs will let you be gentler on their batteries
by allowing you to set a maximum charge level.

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I have my car set to stop charging at 80% because honestly it has way more range than I need,

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and limiting charge levels is thought to prolong battery pack life.

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Anyway, let’s go back to what I said earlier.

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The battery pack is the new gas tank,
and the kilowatt-hour is the new gallon.

00:07:08.432 --> 00:07:13.380
So, my car’s “tank” holds 77.4 kWh.

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And how many miles can each of those 77.4 kWh take me?

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On the highway, about three.

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This car, like lots out there, actually gives you efficiency
in miles per kilowatt-hour,

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and just like miles per gallon, a higher number is better.

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Some cars will flip that and tell you how many watt-hours you consume to go a mile,

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but I find distance-driven per kilowatt-hour to be much more human-friendly,

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especially since I pay for electricity in that unit.

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How far can a full “tank” take me, then?

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It’s the same math as a combustion
vehicle, just with different units.

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3
(our distance we can go with a kWh of energy)

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multiplied by 77.4
(how many of those kWh our pack holds)

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gives about 232 miles of range, a bit shy
of the 256 miles my car is rated by the EPA to go.

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That’s because the EPA rating includes
mixed driving, and in the realm of EVs,

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highway driving is less efficient than stop-and-go.

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I’ll explain why later, but for instance around town I’m regularly hitting 4 miles per kWh in this car,

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but at sustained highway speeds that just isn’t possible.

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Heh, right, speaking of the EPA,

00:08:27.071 --> 00:08:30.948
some knucklehead thought that MPGe was a good idea.

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If you look at the window sticker of an electric car
it’s gonna be prominently given a fuel efficiency in

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Miles Per Gallon-gasoline Equivalent.

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[exasperatedly]
Here’s how that works:

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we assume a US gallon of gasoline contains 33.7 kWh of energy.

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Then, based on the actual energy consumption of the vehicle in real units,

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a backhanded calculation is done to give you
Miles per Pretend Gallon.

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I... it’s not exactly meaningless,

00:09:01.601 --> 00:09:06.329
it’s nice to see how much farther an EV will take you
with the same amount of energy.

00:09:06.329 --> 00:09:12.022
But nobody buys electricity by the gallon,
so miles per kilowatt-hour makes way more sense.

00:09:12.022 --> 00:09:15.584
That would be too easy, though, so if you want to use real units

00:09:15.584 --> 00:09:22.030
the EPA gives them to you, but they tell you how many
 kWh of electricity the car needs to go 100 miles.

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Look, playing around with different energy units is fun
and you can do it however you like,

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but MPGe is just a wee bit silly, dontcha think?

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Anyway, that’s the basics.

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Electric cars have a battery capacity in kWh,

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and we measure a car’s driving efficiency
in much the same way as miles per gallon.

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And that efficiency multiplied by the pack’s capacity gives
you its driving range.

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If you’d like to get an idea of how much it will cost
to charge your electric car,

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well again the basic math is the same as with a gas-powered car,
just with different units.

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Take your commute distance and divide by your car’s efficiency.

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I’ll do a 40 mile commute as an example,
and divide by my car’s 3 mi/kWh highway efficiency.

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I should expect an all-highway 40 mile commute to need 13.3 kWh.

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Now it’s a simple matter of determining
how much your electric utility charges per kWh.

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Supposing a cost of $0.15/kWh, that commute will cost $2.00.

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Now I’ve ignored charging losses with this calculation;
adding 10% will give a more accurate cost.

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Public charging tends to be more expensive,
but we’ll get to that in a bit.

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♫ Music ♫

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I know the next thing a lot of you want to know is
how long it takes to charge a car back up

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and thus refill its proverbial tank.

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The answer is actually so simple it only needs two words.

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Are you ready?

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Now, don’t worry, once you get your head around a few variables,
you’ll be able to answer this quite confidently.

00:11:05.293 --> 00:11:07.777
That’s literally my goal, here!

00:11:07.777 --> 00:11:12.267
For now, we’re going to focus
on “slow” AC charging.

00:11:12.267 --> 00:11:18.733
If you have regular access to a "slow" charger which can fill your car up overnight
(or perhaps when you’re at work),

00:11:18.733 --> 00:11:23.230
you’ll never even think about
visiting a charger when you’re out and about.

00:11:23.230 --> 00:11:28.384
And one of the most beautiful things about
the power grid is that it’s everywhere!

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Level 1 and 2 AC charging simply connects
a car to the grid in the same way you do anything else,

00:11:35.227 --> 00:11:38.021
from a table lamp to a clothes dryer.

00:11:38.021 --> 00:11:40.021
But I’m getting a little ahead of myself.

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To answer how long it takes to charge, there’s really only one critical factor:

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how much power you can deliver to the car.

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We’ll get into details on how exactly that’s accomplished shortly,

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but when you know how much power you have available
and you know the size of your battery pack,

00:11:56.269 --> 00:12:00.035
solving for time to fill it is really simple math.

00:12:00.035 --> 00:12:06.367
All you do is take the battery pack size in kWh
and divide it by the power supply in kilowatts

00:12:06.367 --> 00:12:09.554
and there, you’ve solved for hours!

00:12:09.554 --> 00:12:12.365
Here’s an example for determining charging time.

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Say you have a car with a 60 kWh battery pack,
and a charger which can supply 5 kilowatts.

00:12:18.946 --> 00:12:24.889
60 divided by 5 is 12,
so that car would need 12 hours to charge from empty to full

00:12:24.889 --> 00:12:27.097
with a 5 kW charger.

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But if you had twice the power, 10 kW,
the charging time would be cut in half to six hours.

00:12:33.074 --> 00:12:37.357
60 kilowatt-hours divided by 10 kilowatts is 6 hours.

00:12:37.357 --> 00:12:44.226
And if you only had 3 kW to play with, charging time would be stretched to 20 hours using the same math.

00:12:44.226 --> 00:12:50.883
But it’s important to keep in mind that charging time also depends on how charged the battery already is.

00:12:50.883 --> 00:12:54.440
A half-full battery… is already half-full!

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So in our 60 kWh example car,
a 50% charge means only 30 kWh actually needs to be fed to it.

00:13:02.627 --> 00:13:05.568
That cuts all those charging times in half.

00:13:05.568 --> 00:13:12.179
This is because on AC charging, since the
battery pack is so large and the power input is relatively low,

00:13:12.179 --> 00:13:15.296
the charging curve is essentially linear.

00:13:15.296 --> 00:13:20.061
We’re not dealing with the effects you might be used to
with a phone or laptop battery.

00:13:20.061 --> 00:13:26.537
What really matters is how much energy was taken out of the battery,
and how much power we have to refill it.

00:13:26.537 --> 00:13:29.281
Again, this is in the case of AC charging.

00:13:29.281 --> 00:13:33.520
DC fast charging is another story, which we’ll get to later.

00:13:33.520 --> 00:13:38.806
Now, manufacturers will give you a required
charging time for their cars.

00:13:38.806 --> 00:13:41.725
But honestly, you should probably just ignore that.

00:13:41.725 --> 00:13:44.698
See, if you were to look at Hyundai’s information on my car,

00:13:44.698 --> 00:13:52.742
they’ll tell you that it takes a little less than 7 hours
to charge it from 10% to 100% on a 240V charger.

00:13:52.742 --> 00:13:55.864
That’s pretty good for an up-to 300 mile EV.

00:13:55.864 --> 00:13:58.840
But, I don’t like that answer.

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At all.

00:14:00.466 --> 00:14:04.697
To be clear it’s not wrong - that speed is absolutely possible!

00:14:04.697 --> 00:14:09.682
But only if you have a charger with enough
capacity to support that speed.

00:14:09.682 --> 00:14:15.355
Which I don’t because, frankly, I think it’s very much
overkill for virtually anyone.

00:14:15.355 --> 00:14:18.231
But again, getting ahead of myself here.

00:14:18.231 --> 00:14:24.794
A while back I made a video on what exactly an EVSE -
the technical name for a car charger -

00:14:24.794 --> 00:14:27.512
is, does, and how it works.

00:14:27.512 --> 00:14:31.643
I won’t get into the specifics here, if you’re curious watch that video!

00:14:31.643 --> 00:14:34.496
But the key thing to know is that the actual charger,

00:14:34.496 --> 00:14:40.640
meaning the device that takes AC power from the grid
and converts it to DC for charging the battery cells,

00:14:40.640 --> 00:14:42.774
lives in the car.

00:14:42.774 --> 00:14:47.120
The voltage conversion and all that stuff is entirely the car’s job.

00:14:47.120 --> 00:14:52.352
The EVSE is just a very-slightly-smart power cord

00:14:52.352 --> 00:14:58.550
which delivers raw AC voltage to the charge port and tells the car how much power it’s allowed to pull.

00:14:58.550 --> 00:15:02.496
That’s all this does, plus a few safety things.

00:15:02.496 --> 00:15:10.373
Hyundai’s charging time claim comes from the fact that the Ioniq 5’s onboard charger can accept a maximum of 48 amps,

00:15:10.373 --> 00:15:14.195
and at 240 volts that’s 11.5 kW.

00:15:14.195 --> 00:15:19.860
77.4 kW-hours divided by the car’s maximum power input of 11.5 kW

00:15:19.860 --> 00:15:26.543
tells us that we need 6.73 hours of charging time 
to deliver an entire battery pack’s worth of energy,

00:15:26.543 --> 00:15:28.670
exactly what Hyundai claims.

00:15:28.750 --> 00:15:33.111
Now, hang on, they claimed that time from 10 to 100%,

00:15:33.111 --> 00:15:38.266
and we did the math for 0 to 100% - why the discrepancy?

00:15:38.266 --> 00:15:42.540
Well, there is about a 10% loss when charging a battery,

00:15:42.540 --> 00:15:49.987
in other words only about 90 of every 100 kWh pulled
by the car ends up stored in the battery.

00:15:49.987 --> 00:15:55.159
The rest is lost as heat in chemical processes
and various charging components.

00:15:55.159 --> 00:15:57.742
But in the end, and this goes for any car,

00:15:57.742 --> 00:16:01.961
all you need to know to determine
charge time are three variables:

00:16:01.961 --> 00:16:03.616
the size of your battery pack,

00:16:03.616 --> 00:16:06.009
how much of its capacity you need to recover,

00:16:06.009 --> 00:16:08.655
and how much power your charger can deliver.

00:16:08.655 --> 00:16:12.413
Add 10% to the end result
if you want to be really accurate.

00:16:12.413 --> 00:16:19.250
Manufacturers are generally going to quote an empty-to-full
time on the fastest charger the car will support -

00:16:19.250 --> 00:16:24.959
that’s useful to know and is a simple selling point,
but the real world is messier.

00:16:24.959 --> 00:16:26.892
Usually in good ways!

00:16:27.754 --> 00:16:33.163
♫ Music ♫

00:16:34.416 --> 00:16:38.822
So now, let’s talk about what sort of charging
solution you might need.

00:16:38.822 --> 00:16:44.101
First, let me acknowledge that I know there are lots of you out there who need to drive a car

00:16:44.101 --> 00:16:47.974
but don’t have a dedicated place to park and charge one.

00:16:47.974 --> 00:16:51.172
Trust me, I’m not trying to be dismissive of your situation.

00:16:51.172 --> 00:16:53.708
I’m just as frustrated as you are!

00:16:53.708 --> 00:16:57.871
See, the beauty of AC charging is that it’s simple!

00:16:57.871 --> 00:17:01.555
It’s incredibly straightforward infrastructure to deploy,

00:17:01.555 --> 00:17:06.586
and there’s no reason it shouldn’t spread to multi-family
dwellings and areas with on-street parking

00:17:06.586 --> 00:17:12.072
other than finicky details like permitting,
billing structures, maintenance concerns, building codes,

00:17:12.072 --> 00:17:14.150
and miscellanea like that.

00:17:14.150 --> 00:17:20.896
The good news is that there are plenty of creative solutions in the works and I’m sure we’ll see more of them with time.

00:17:20.896 --> 00:17:25.778
So while I don’t have answers for you here,
keep your eyes peeled.

00:17:25.778 --> 00:17:31.635
For those lucky ones who have a garage or
even a driveway close to their home or other electrified structure,

00:17:31.635 --> 00:17:34.184
well you’re probably pretty good to go.

00:17:34.184 --> 00:17:37.005
In fact you might already be set.

00:17:37.005 --> 00:17:41.597
Actually, right, here’s a misconception
I keep seeing pop up from time to time:

00:17:41.597 --> 00:17:48.913
This connector design is waterproof — there’s a gasket in here which seals the pins from the elements when a connector is attached.

00:17:48.913 --> 00:17:51.955
And charging your car outside is totally OK.

00:17:51.955 --> 00:17:55.262
There is plenty of charging equipment
meant to go outdoors,

00:17:55.262 --> 00:17:58.364
so don’t assume you’ll need a covered parking spot.

00:17:58.364 --> 00:18:02.140
You can simply install a charger on an outside wall near to where you park.

00:18:02.140 --> 00:18:09.650
And plenty of cars these days can lock the connector to the car to keep bored teens from unplugging it while you sleep.

00:18:09.650 --> 00:18:12.538
The other thing to mention is that in the US market,

00:18:12.538 --> 00:18:18.739
this J1772 connector is an industry standard followed by all players...

00:18:18.739 --> 00:18:20.488
except Tesla.

00:18:20.488 --> 00:18:24.880
Tesla uses a proprietary charging connector, for better or worse.

00:18:24.880 --> 00:18:31.457
I’m not going to relitigate this whole debacle as I’ve done it several times now with increasing levels of exasperated snark,

00:18:31.457 --> 00:18:36.296
but you should know that throughout this video
I’m assuming that you’re looking for a charger

00:18:36.296 --> 00:18:43.442
that is directly compatible — no adapters needed — with literally every
plug-in car sold since 2010

00:18:43.442 --> 00:18:50.070
and literally every option on the market today except for
those models made by That Company.

00:18:50.070 --> 00:18:53.306
Even if you want a vehicle made by That Company,

00:18:53.306 --> 00:19:02.188
I would suggest installing a J1772 charger as a simple adapter which is provided with their vehicles will allow you to plug into it.

00:19:02.188 --> 00:19:10.600
And if you want one of the dozens of options that
aren’t S, 3, X, or Y, you’ll charge in dongle-free bliss.

00:19:10.600 --> 00:19:15.572
But there’s a good chance that you might
not even need to install a charger at all.

00:19:16.551 --> 00:19:21.576
♫ Music ♫

00:19:23.025 --> 00:19:27.158
If you drive a fairly average amount, say up to 50 miles a day,

00:19:27.158 --> 00:19:31.929
one of these little guys might actually take care of you just fine!

00:19:31.929 --> 00:19:36.191
Level 1 charging is charging on 120V power,

00:19:36.191 --> 00:19:43.188
and most of the time this involves simply plugging your car into a household outlet through a portable EVSE like this one,

00:19:43.188 --> 00:19:45.224
which many vehicles come with.

00:19:45.224 --> 00:19:49.848
Here in the US an EV can draw 12 amps through this sort of supply.

00:19:49.848 --> 00:19:53.248
At 120V that’s 1.44 kilowatts.

00:19:53.836 --> 00:20:02.433
That’s not a lot, but in a very efficient EV,
50 miles of highway driving might take as little as 12.5 kWh.

00:20:02.433 --> 00:20:06.795
Assuming some losses that will take about 10 hours of charging to recover.

00:20:06.795 --> 00:20:09.975
Now, that’s admittedly a long time.

00:20:09.975 --> 00:20:15.018
But I’m willing to bet that you sleep for long enough
to cover the bulk of your charging.

00:20:15.018 --> 00:20:22.166
Level 1 charging isn’t for everyone and has drawbacks,
but I would argue it’s more useful than many realize.

00:20:22.166 --> 00:20:30.292
When I first got my 2013 Chevy Volt, which only had about a 40 mile electric range from its 10.5 kWh pack,

00:20:30.292 --> 00:20:32.658
I just plugged it into a regular outlet.

00:20:32.658 --> 00:20:37.519
Its small battery pack meant that it only ever
took 10 hours for a complete charge.

00:20:37.519 --> 00:20:44.047
And with a 32 mile round-trip commute, I was driving
entirely on electricity every day.

00:20:44.047 --> 00:20:48.927
My next job was nearly twice as far away at a 60 mile
round-trip,

00:20:48.927 --> 00:20:54.002
but by asking nicely and bringing a cord protector with me to keep folks from tripping on it,

00:20:54.002 --> 00:20:59.127
I was also able to plug-in during my workday - again, to a bog standard outlet.

00:20:59.127 --> 00:21:05.894
Usually I’d be topped off by the end of my shift, so even then I was doing an all-electric 60 mile commute

00:21:05.894 --> 00:21:09.526
with only level 1 charging and a 40 mile range.

00:21:09.526 --> 00:21:12.475
I would shortly move a little further from work,

00:21:12.475 --> 00:21:20.235
proving that even a 70 mile commute was possible in
the Volt with only Level 1 charging at both ends.

00:21:20.235 --> 00:21:24.194
At least, for the seven or eight warm-enough
months of the year....

00:21:24.194 --> 00:21:27.748
OK, I spent too much time on this so here’s
a condensed voiceover.

00:21:27.748 --> 00:21:36.078
Level 1 charging is slow, and since cold weather decreases driving range, if you live in a cold climate a 40 mile commute might be cutting it close.

00:21:36.078 --> 00:21:38.900
And I'm not gonna pretend everyone can plug in at work.

00:21:38.900 --> 00:21:41.494
I just wanted to give you an example of its potential.

00:21:41.494 --> 00:21:47.967
L1 charging is also less energy efficient since the car’s charging electronics need their own power to operate,

00:21:47.967 --> 00:21:54.901
and with only 1.4 kW controls and monitoring
start to take up a larger percentage of the power available to the car.

00:21:54.901 --> 00:22:00.776
That effect can also be problematic if you park outside and the car needs some power to heat its battery pack,

00:22:00.776 --> 00:22:06.292
leaving little power for actual charging - but that’s very model and circumstance dependent.

00:22:06.292 --> 00:22:11.447
Plugging into a standard outlet may also present
problems depending on what else is on the same circuit.

00:22:11.447 --> 00:22:14.195
That is especially notable in older homes.

00:22:14.195 --> 00:22:21.595
And, a 12 amp load on a normal socket is kind of a lot, and old,
 worn-out receptacles present a hazard.

00:22:21.595 --> 00:22:25.813
That’s easy to fix by replacing the receptacle,
but you should be aware of that.

00:22:25.813 --> 00:22:31.821
And in case you’re watching from one of those 240V countries
where boiling a liter of water takes 2 minutes in a kettle,

00:22:31.821 --> 00:22:37.829
you should definitely not rule out charging off a standard outlet because you have more zippy zappy to play with.

00:22:37.829 --> 00:22:41.034
The last main drawback of Level 1 charging is that,

00:22:41.034 --> 00:22:44.658
since you need your car to be charging essentially whenever it can,

00:22:44.658 --> 00:22:49.816
you won’t be able to take advantage of time-of-use rates if your utility offers them.

00:22:49.816 --> 00:22:56.709
Since my power is a lot cheaper at night,
I benefit from having a more powerful supply to my car.

00:22:56.709 --> 00:23:03.844
So I have one, and the car is programmed to wait to charge until midnight,
a feature nearly all EVs offer.

00:23:03.844 --> 00:23:09.413
My more powerful charger is a 240V charger, so it’s classified as

00:23:09.413 --> 00:23:12.533
LEVEL TWO.

00:23:12.533 --> 00:23:21.820
Now, an annoying thing about the classification “Level 2” is that it can be anything from 2.5 all the way up to 19.2 kW.

00:23:21.820 --> 00:23:22.881
That’s all

00:23:22.881 --> 00:23:25.331
LEVEL TWO

00:23:25.331 --> 00:23:28.254
so as a category it’s just not that useful.

00:23:28.254 --> 00:23:35.457
It’s another reason I don’t like Hyundai saying it takes 7 hours on “a 240V charger” to charge my car.

00:23:35.457 --> 00:23:39.947
And wait ‘till we get to the fact that sometimes 240 is 208.

00:23:39.947 --> 00:23:45.002
Anyway, let’s say you need or want a Level
2 charger installed.

00:23:45.002 --> 00:23:46.700
What’s that gonna look like?

00:23:46.700 --> 00:23:49.591
Here comes that 2-word answer again:

00:23:49.591 --> 00:23:51.045
it depends.

00:23:51.594 --> 00:23:57.007
♫ Music ♫

00:23:58.339 --> 00:24:02.160
First thing I want to say — if you are building a home or buying new construction,

00:24:02.160 --> 00:24:04.899
even if you don’t have an electric car right now,

00:24:04.899 --> 00:24:07.743
ask to have one of these installed in your garage.

00:24:07.743 --> 00:24:16.318
This is a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and it supplies enough power to charge
virtually any EV from empty to full overnight.

00:24:16.318 --> 00:24:21.143
Many inexpensive car chargers are out there which
plug straight into this nasty fella

00:24:21.143 --> 00:24:26.022
and it’s sort-of becoming an unofficial standard EV charging plug over here.

00:24:26.022 --> 00:24:28.425
To clear up a sort-of mistake of mine,

00:24:28.425 --> 00:24:34.887
in my video on EVSEs I suggested a NEMA 6-50
which doesn’t have the fourth, neutral pin.

00:24:34.887 --> 00:24:39.403
See, I had already bought a charger
from Costco which featured a 6-50 plug

00:24:39.403 --> 00:24:44.378
and thought since an EVSE doesn’t need the neutral
that's probably what most EVSEs are gonna plug into

00:24:44.378 --> 00:24:45.379
but nope!

00:24:45.379 --> 00:24:49.094
There are way more options for 14-50 plugs out there,

00:24:49.094 --> 00:24:54.192
possibly because big RVs use that plug
so it’s fairly common at campsites.

00:24:54.192 --> 00:24:55.475
But moving on…

00:24:55.475 --> 00:25:01.394
Here’s another fun angle, do you have an electric clothes dryer and is it close to where you charge your car?

00:25:01.394 --> 00:25:05.587
If you have a conventional electric dryer, and it’s in or near to your garage,

00:25:05.587 --> 00:25:10.014
you already have a 30A 240V circuit at your disposal.

00:25:10.014 --> 00:25:14.204
And inexpensive chargers are available which’ll plug right into it.

00:25:14.204 --> 00:25:17.662
A 30A circuit won’t give you the fastest charge out there,

00:25:17.662 --> 00:25:22.431
but it’s over 5 kilowatts which is, trust me, plenty.

00:25:22.431 --> 00:25:27.854
Now, don’t worry, you don’t need to keep unplugging
and replugging your dryer every laundry day.

00:25:27.854 --> 00:25:34.472
There are simple splitters on the market designed to let you
have both an EVSE and a dryer plugged into the same receptacle,

00:25:34.472 --> 00:25:39.794
but you will have to remember to unplug your car before you use the dryer should you go that route.

00:25:39.794 --> 00:25:43.553
Really, though, if you have this option - take it!

00:25:43.553 --> 00:25:45.278
But if you’re not in that lucky boat,

00:25:45.278 --> 00:25:52.480
to add a charger to your existing home you’ll need a new circuit run from your electrical panel to wherever you charge your car.

00:25:52.480 --> 00:25:58.751
If your panel is in or near your garage, this will be a cinch
and should only cost you a few hundred dollars.

00:25:58.751 --> 00:26:01.773
If it’s farther away, expect to pay more.

00:26:01.773 --> 00:26:09.984
Since Level 2 chargers are 240/208V and require both hot legs 
you will need two free spaces in your breaker panel.

00:26:09.984 --> 00:26:14.425
If you currently have none, you may
be able to consolidate some circuits together -

00:26:14.425 --> 00:26:19.202
consult your electrician for whether or not that’s possible or allowed where you live.

00:26:19.202 --> 00:26:24.781
Oh, and definitely don’t assume you
need an electrical service upgrade to drive electric -

00:26:24.781 --> 00:26:27.899
I would argue you almost certainly don’t.

00:26:27.899 --> 00:26:34.086
There are also some pretty exciting developments when it comes to breaker panels which will come up in a future video.

00:26:34.086 --> 00:26:37.907
But assuming you do have the space for a new
breaker in your service panel,

00:26:37.907 --> 00:26:40.397
well here’s broadly what’s gonna happen.

00:26:40.397 --> 00:26:44.109
A new two-pole circuit breaker will take up two spots in the panel,

00:26:44.109 --> 00:26:49.164
and a two-conductor with ground cable will be connected with the hot wires to the breaker’s lugs,

00:26:49.164 --> 00:26:51.231
and the ground to your ground block.

00:26:51.231 --> 00:26:56.628
That cable will then exit the panel and run through walls, attics, or whenever code allows

00:26:56.628 --> 00:26:59.152
until it gets to where you want your charger.

00:26:59.152 --> 00:27:04.178
If you’re hardwiring a charger,
you’ll stick a junction box on the wall where that cable ends up,

00:27:04.178 --> 00:27:09.165
pull the wires into the box
and connect them through to an EVSE’s incoming power wires.

00:27:09.165 --> 00:27:13.226
If you’re installing a high-power receptacle, it’s much the same idea.

00:27:13.226 --> 00:27:15.066
Close up the panel and box,

00:27:15.066 --> 00:27:17.350
close in the breaker and energize the wires,

00:27:17.350 --> 00:27:19.206
and you’re done.

00:27:19.206 --> 00:27:25.038
This is a really straightforward process,
so much so that I’ve done it myself two times now:

00:27:25.038 --> 00:27:28.000
once for my parents, and later for me.

00:27:28.000 --> 00:27:32.642
DIYing it’s not for everyone, and different chargers may need different things -

00:27:32.642 --> 00:27:37.748
for instance, really big EVSEs actually need a disconnect switch as well.

00:27:37.748 --> 00:27:41.932
But when it comes to electrical work this is really simple stuff,

00:27:41.932 --> 00:27:49.259
and the simplicity here is one of many reasons I’m much more excited about EVs compared to, say, hydrogen.

00:27:49.259 --> 00:27:52.359
And when you have a circuit like this available in your home,

00:27:52.359 --> 00:27:56.136
you are seriously never going to think about charging.

00:27:56.136 --> 00:28:03.366
You can have a full battery every day
and the idea of stopping somewhere to get a top up will just leave your mind.

00:28:03.366 --> 00:28:07.810
It’s truly amazing and I hope everyone who needs to drive can experience this.

00:28:08.867 --> 00:28:14.785
♫ Music ♫

00:28:15.647 --> 00:28:18.571
Assuming you have the option of running a new circuit,

00:28:18.571 --> 00:28:23.359
well now comes the time when you’ll need to decide
how large of a circuit you want to run.

00:28:23.359 --> 00:28:29.768
And here I’d like to whip out my Midwesterner card
and strongly convince you to not go overboard.

00:28:29.768 --> 00:28:38.810
There are a lot of people who think that they’re gonna need
a big honkin’ 50A circuit with expensive 6 gauge wiring to charge their car.

00:28:38.810 --> 00:28:48.177
And I’ve seen multiple folks in two car families presume that they’ll need two of those very large and expensive circuits to drive electric.

00:28:48.177 --> 00:28:49.716
Here’s my spicy take;

00:28:49.716 --> 00:28:51.104
ya don’t.

00:28:51.104 --> 00:28:55.399
The only scenario where you would actually need that much power

00:28:55.399 --> 00:29:01.742
is if you and your partner *each* drive over two hundred miles every single day.

00:29:01.742 --> 00:29:06.792
I’ve seen so many folks in comments, product reviews, and really wherever else online

00:29:06.792 --> 00:29:11.178
get into this mindset that they want the fastest charger possible.

00:29:11.178 --> 00:29:15.867
They’ll immediately start looking for massive high-power charging stations

00:29:15.867 --> 00:29:24.317
and often seem to assume that if they were to buy a car which *can* charge at 10 kW,
they'll need a 10 kW charger for it.

00:29:25.335 --> 00:29:29.270
I mean, if you can swing it go ahead but that’s not how it works.

00:29:29.270 --> 00:29:36.483
Any car will work on any charger and simply limit its power draw
based on a capacity signal coming from the charger.

00:29:36.483 --> 00:29:38.708
That’s how the standard works.

00:29:38.708 --> 00:29:42.177
So don’t just rush out and buy the fastest charger for your car -

00:29:42.177 --> 00:29:46.679
it’s expensive and may come with more headaches
than you bargained for.

00:29:46.679 --> 00:29:49.931
How do you know what sorta charger you actually
need?

00:29:49.931 --> 00:29:51.725
Simple, you just listen to me!

00:29:51.725 --> 00:29:54.884
It’s 7.2 kW. That’ll do fine!

00:29:56.255 --> 00:30:00.142
I’m kidding, but actually not really...

00:30:00.142 --> 00:30:05.034
I consider that to be the “very good” speed that’ll
work for just about anyone

00:30:05.034 --> 00:30:09.709
but to give you some real information in the realm of
electric vehicle supply equipment,

00:30:09.709 --> 00:30:12.430
amps are what matters first and foremost.

00:30:12.430 --> 00:30:16.240
Wires of a given thickness can only handle so much current,

00:30:16.240 --> 00:30:20.301
ultimately making amps allowed on a circuit the limiting factor.

00:30:20.301 --> 00:30:25.020
So when you look for a charger, you’re gonna find them listed by amperage.

00:30:25.020 --> 00:30:30.423
Thanks to the 80% rule which limits continuous loads to 80% of a circuit’s capacity,

00:30:30.423 --> 00:30:39.228
you’ll usually find two amperages listed: the size circuit a given unit requires, 
and the actual amperage it can deliver to a car.

00:30:39.228 --> 00:30:43.511
Now, I know we’ve been talking in kilowatts
and now I’m throwing amps at you.

00:30:43.511 --> 00:30:44.942
Sorry about that.

00:30:44.942 --> 00:30:47.843
To know the power output of a charger in kilowatts,

00:30:47.843 --> 00:30:52.401
you simply multiply amps it can supply by the voltage of that supply.

00:30:52.401 --> 00:30:59.372
That is usually gonna be 240V, but in some settings
(mainly in large buildings which have three-phase power)

00:30:59.372 --> 00:31:02.216
it might be 208V.

00:31:02.216 --> 00:31:05.692
It’s a relatively small difference, so it’s not worth getting too hung up on,

00:31:05.692 --> 00:31:11.994
but be prepared for the same charger in a home setting to be just a little bit slower in a commercial setting.

00:31:11.994 --> 00:31:16.917
Here’s a chart of all the common circuit sizes and
how much power that nets you.

00:31:16.917 --> 00:31:21.555
To make comparisons to real life a little easier, we can use a cheat.

00:31:21.555 --> 00:31:26.984
You will somewhat commonly see circuit capacities
be given a “miles per hour” figure.

00:31:26.984 --> 00:31:30.265
This is useful, but a little messy.

00:31:30.265 --> 00:31:35.664
A “typical” vehicle will gain about 10 miles of range per hour on a 20 amp charger,

00:31:35.664 --> 00:31:38.549
15 miles per hour on a 30 amp unit,

00:31:38.549 --> 00:31:41.055
20 mph on a 40A unit,

00:31:41.055 --> 00:31:43.211
and I’ll let you do the rest as homework.

00:31:43.211 --> 00:31:47.377
Oh and Level 1 charging, remember that’s just plugging into a household outlet,

00:31:47.377 --> 00:31:54.185
gives you about 4 miles of range per hour,
maybe 5 with a really efficient EV in perfect conditions.

00:31:54.185 --> 00:32:00.791
Using these miles-per-hour speeds is a decent starting point 
but now that bigger EVs are on the market,

00:32:00.791 --> 00:32:02.721
it’s beginning to fall apart.

00:32:02.721 --> 00:32:08.050
My car lines up with those figures pretty well
at 3 miles per kilowatt-hour on the highway,

00:32:08.050 --> 00:32:13.343
but of course in winter it needs a little more time since it uses
more energy to go the same distance.

00:32:13.343 --> 00:32:17.865
And a vehicle like an F-150 Lightning will, 
based on what the EPA says,

00:32:17.865 --> 00:32:24.371
only gain about ⅔ as much range per hour it’s plugged in as
the conventional speeds wisdom.

00:32:24.371 --> 00:32:31.333
So I’d argue it’s better to think about this in energy terms,
but giving a charger a speed like that is handy.

00:32:31.333 --> 00:32:34.108
So handy, I’m gonna use it right now!

00:32:34.108 --> 00:32:38.567
The next thing to do to help you determine
how large of a charging circuit you might need

00:32:38.567 --> 00:32:43.562
is to multiply that miles-per-hour figure by
hours plugged into a charger

00:32:43.562 --> 00:32:47.252
to get a sense of how many miles are regained in that time.

00:32:47.252 --> 00:32:52.605
I’m gonna go ahead and work with a 10 hour overnight charge time
since lots of you sleep for 8 hours

00:32:52.605 --> 00:32:56.133
and a morning and evening routine tacks on a bit at each end.

00:32:56.133 --> 00:33:02.713
If you’ve been following along then you’ll know a 20 amp circuit gets you 100 miles of range overnight,

00:33:02.713 --> 00:33:06.533
30 amps gives you 150, 40 amps 200.

00:33:06.533 --> 00:33:09.714
And again - I'll leave the rest for homework.

00:33:09.714 --> 00:33:15.128
Notice how the smallest number I just gave you was 100 miles.

00:33:15.128 --> 00:33:18.713
I’m going to stress this point.
And I’m going to be obnoxious about this

00:33:18.713 --> 00:33:22.353
because I really need y’all to know this and deeply:

00:33:22.353 --> 00:33:24.454
A 20 amp circuit.

00:33:24.454 --> 00:33:26.050
Which is not a whole lot.

00:33:26.050 --> 00:33:29.075
And which can be run with cheap 12 gauge Romex,

00:33:29.075 --> 00:33:38.850
can make even a crossover-sized EV like mine go 100 miles every single day, charging exclusively in the overnight hours.

00:33:39.594 --> 00:33:42.061
You do not need a giant charger.

00:33:42.061 --> 00:33:46.585
Yes, I hear you, what about all those "but sometimes!" situations you’re thinking of?

00:33:46.585 --> 00:33:48.559
Like winter, for instance!

00:33:48.833 --> 00:33:53.378
Well, even if we assume an extreme 40% winter range loss,

00:33:53.378 --> 00:33:58.509
you’re still getting a 60 mile round trip commute recovered every evening.

00:33:58.509 --> 00:34:05.249
And let’s be real, you can probably charge your car for a bit more than 10 hours every night if you really needed to.

00:34:05.249 --> 00:34:11.901
Now I’m not saying everyone should limit
themselves to 20 amp circuits for their car chargers.

00:34:11.901 --> 00:34:15.317
I myself use a charger which is twice as powerful.

00:34:15.317 --> 00:34:21.659
But I’m only doing that so I can drive 100 miles in a day
(a thing I regularly do)

00:34:21.659 --> 00:34:27.539
and top the battery up entirely during off-peak hours,
taking advantage of low overnight power rates.

00:34:27.539 --> 00:34:35.392
If I didn’t care about that, frankly my life would not change
one bit if I were limited to a 3.8 kW charger.

00:34:35.392 --> 00:34:38.132
Even my long drives would be recovered overnight,

00:34:38.132 --> 00:34:43.780
but I might need to charge from 9:00PM to 7:00AM rather than midnight to 5:00 AM.

00:34:43.780 --> 00:34:47.089
The reason I’m so passionate about spreading this gospel

00:34:47.089 --> 00:34:52.001
is that I know there are lots of you with only 100A service or possibly even less

00:34:52.001 --> 00:34:57.255
that have ruled out an EV because you’ve assumed you’ll need a service upgrade.

00:34:57.255 --> 00:35:02.314
I’m not gonna tell you that you definitely won’t because
I don’t know your particular situation,

00:35:02.314 --> 00:35:07.836
but you should know that a car charging on a 20A circuit only pulls 16 amps.

00:35:07.836 --> 00:35:12.143
That’s only 16% of your capacity if you have 100A service.

00:35:12.143 --> 00:35:15.365
And yet, that can take you quite far.

00:35:15.365 --> 00:35:22.648
A conservative 20,000 miles annually
charging only 10 hours a day and only on work days.

00:35:22.648 --> 00:35:29.201
It’s important to note that you can’t just add up the breakers in your panel to see how close you are to using up your service level.

00:35:29.201 --> 00:35:35.446
In nearly all homes you’ll find the total circuits far
and away exceed the main breaker’s rating.

00:35:35.446 --> 00:35:39.599
You need to think through what’s on those
circuits and how often they get used -

00:35:39.599 --> 00:35:42.321
an electrician should be able to help you with that.

00:35:42.321 --> 00:35:50.490
The other reason I’m pretty gung-ho about basic level 2 chargers is that the wiring needed for them is cheap and plentiful.

00:35:50.490 --> 00:35:56.620
So long as your garage or driveway is close enough to the service panel that voltage drop doesn't become an issue,

00:35:56.620 --> 00:36:02.940
this stuff is all you need and the going rate right now is about $80 for 50 feet.

00:36:02.940 --> 00:36:10.580
And heck you can step up to the orange stuff, 10 gauge,
and run a 30 amp circuit the same length for about $50 more.

00:36:11.403 --> 00:36:18.822
And, uh, those of us who live where Romex isn’t legal can cry
in a corner and hope that armored cable is up to code.

00:36:18.822 --> 00:36:23.376
Anyway, before you get scared off thinking
you need panel or service upgrades,

00:36:23.376 --> 00:36:29.702
I’d encourage you to think long and hard about
whether that’s truly necessary in your situation.

00:36:29.790 --> 00:36:33.628
I can tell you from experience that a 20A
charger on wiring like this

00:36:33.628 --> 00:36:41.317
would have easily taken care of my 70 mile commute even in the dead of winter,
and even with my crossover-sized vehicle.

00:36:41.317 --> 00:36:47.130
If you have the wiggle room, though, I would personally suggest 
that you run a 40 amp circuit

00:36:47.130 --> 00:36:49.788
for a 30 or 32 amp charger.

00:36:49.788 --> 00:36:55.975
I consider 7.2 kW to be the Certified Midwestern Gold™ standard of charging.

00:36:55.975 --> 00:37:02.481
You have to drive an awful lot and with a pretty inefficient vehicle for this to not meet your daily needs.

00:37:02.481 --> 00:37:08.598
Over 10 hours, such a charger will push something like 65 kWh into a battery pack after losses,

00:37:08.598 --> 00:37:10.712
which is about 200 miles in my car.

00:37:10.712 --> 00:37:13.013
It’s the vast majority of the pack.

00:37:13.013 --> 00:37:21.207
And even with a vehicle as large as a Ford F-150 Lightning,
 that’s 130 miles of range recovered every night, nothing to sneeze at.

00:37:21.207 --> 00:37:25.964
To give you some sense of how Absolutely Fine™ I consider that charging speed,

00:37:25.964 --> 00:37:34.052
well at home I do indeed have a 50 amp circuit going to this receptacle so I could charge at 9.6 kW,

00:37:34.052 --> 00:37:42.621
but I only bought a 7.2 kW charger (because it was a lot cheaper)
and I see absolutely no reason to upgrade.

00:37:42.621 --> 00:37:46.391
Aha, but what if your household,
through the magic of having two of them,

00:37:46.391 --> 00:37:48.245
needs to charge up two cars?

00:37:48.245 --> 00:37:50.677
What now, Toaster Boy?

00:37:50.912 --> 00:37:56.815
Well, the first thing I’d like to point out is when you get your hands on a 200+ mile EV,

00:37:56.815 --> 00:37:58.712
a funny thing happens.

00:37:58.712 --> 00:38:01.649
You stop bothering to plug it in every day.

00:38:01.649 --> 00:38:08.540
It begins to feel kinda silly never discharging the battery pack below 80%,
so you just sorta…

00:38:08.540 --> 00:38:13.928
end up behaving like you did back in the dino juice days
and only plug it in when you really need to.

00:38:13.928 --> 00:38:19.968
I guess I shouldn’t speak for everyone
but honestly at this point I really only plug the car in after a long journey,

00:38:19.968 --> 00:38:23.342
otherwise I'll go a solid week without charging it.

00:38:23.342 --> 00:38:25.825
200 miles is a long distance, folks!

00:38:25.825 --> 00:38:30.576
That’ll get you from Chicago all the way across Illinois
and solidly into Iowa.

00:38:30.576 --> 00:38:33.220
I really hope you’re not commuting like that.

00:38:33.220 --> 00:38:39.422
So if you have to charge two cars, first don’t
jump to the conclusion that you’ll need to run two circuits.

00:38:39.422 --> 00:38:42.594
A single charger can easily be shared.

00:38:42.594 --> 00:38:47.380
If you feel like that’s too hard or have some weird parking space
restrictions or something like that,

00:38:47.380 --> 00:38:52.253
well there are also options in which two EVSEs share a single circuit.

00:38:52.253 --> 00:38:58.215
They talk to each other and split power between two cars if
they’re both charging at the same time.

00:38:58.215 --> 00:39:04.700
But trust me, the simple and free solution of just figuring out a system works pretty friggin great.

00:39:04.700 --> 00:39:07.161
On Mondays, Carl parks on the left,

00:39:07.161 --> 00:39:09.254
and on Tuesdays, Brenda does.

00:39:09.254 --> 00:39:10.927
Alternate and then switch on the weekends.

00:39:10.927 --> 00:39:12.598
You can do it, I believe in you!

00:39:12.598 --> 00:39:17.856
And if one of you gets in the habit of backing in
you might not even need to switch places!

00:39:17.856 --> 00:39:21.672
Obviously if you’ve got a bigger family
where more than two people drive cars,

00:39:21.672 --> 00:39:27.681
this gets more complex and there may very well
be value in having multiple charge points in your situation.

00:39:27.681 --> 00:39:32.987
But think long and hard about how powerful those chargers actually need to be.

00:39:32.987 --> 00:39:38.323
Remember, a 40 amp circuit can
push 200 miles of range in a car over 10 hours.

00:39:38.323 --> 00:39:40.864
Even if there are four drivers in your household,

00:39:40.864 --> 00:39:48.034
your daily miles driven need to add up to over 200 miles
before that power level really starts to limit you.

00:39:48.034 --> 00:39:52.928
But we’re getting well into edge cases now, let’s reel it back in a bit.

00:39:52.928 --> 00:39:57.871
At this point we’ve covered pretty much
everything I think you need to know about AC charging.

00:39:57.871 --> 00:40:02.204
Bottom line: Level 1 might work for you, so don’t rule it out right away.

00:40:02.290 --> 00:40:07.750
But if you need more power, even a really
basic Level 2 charger can take you places.

00:40:07.750 --> 00:40:12.900
If you can swing a 7.2 kW charger, I think
you’ll be happy no matter what you drive.

00:40:12.900 --> 00:40:15.468
And going above that level might be necessary,

00:40:15.468 --> 00:40:20.271
but really only if you drive a big vehicle very far every day.

00:40:20.271 --> 00:40:23.174
Now let’s talk about DC fast charging!

00:40:24.740 --> 00:40:29.563
♫ Music ♫

00:40:30.346 --> 00:40:32.787
First, and I know I sound like a broken record,

00:40:32.787 --> 00:40:38.225
DC fast charging should really only be necessary to enable long-distance travel.

00:40:38.225 --> 00:40:45.388
I hope you can see why “slow” AC charging at home
(or even at work if you have that option) is where it’s at -

00:40:45.388 --> 00:40:52.005
it’s cheap infrastructure to set up, and it’s way more convenient
to charge while you’re sleeping (or working).

00:40:52.005 --> 00:40:54.670
Then you’re never actually waiting.

00:40:54.670 --> 00:41:00.342
We just need to figure out ways for it to spread outside of the easy targets of single-family housing and the like.

00:41:00.342 --> 00:41:07.776
I promise you that’s a much better future for all involved than turning today’s gas stations into fast charging stations.

00:41:07.776 --> 00:41:12.569
We’ll need some of those in-town for getting
folks out of a jam or for day trips and whatnot.

00:41:12.569 --> 00:41:17.234
But DC charging should really be the exception and not the norm.

00:41:17.234 --> 00:41:20.838
I’m not going to talk too too deeply about
DC fast charging here

00:41:20.838 --> 00:41:23.691
because I’ve made a video already on that tech.

00:41:23.691 --> 00:41:25.306
Clicky thing, link below, you know the drill.

00:41:25.306 --> 00:41:30.649
But that video didn’t touch much on the more persnickety
details of today’s battery tech.

00:41:30.649 --> 00:41:34.324
It was mainly about the chargers and how powerful they are.

00:41:34.324 --> 00:41:37.307
Which, to be clear, they’re very powerful!

00:41:37.307 --> 00:41:41.634
These chargers have an output in
kW and we can do the same math we did for AC charging

00:41:41.634 --> 00:41:43.744
to figure out charge times.

00:41:43.744 --> 00:41:53.804
The quasi-standard 150 (!) kW chargers are fast enough to completely charge my car’s 77.4 kWh battery pack in 30 minutes,

00:41:53.804 --> 00:41:58.591
and a 350 kW charger could do the same in only 13 minutes.

00:41:58.591 --> 00:42:00.611
Except, they can’t.

00:42:00.611 --> 00:42:04.170
Not because of the chargers but because of the batteries.

00:42:04.170 --> 00:42:10.341
When DC fast charging, those effects you might be used
to with a phone or a laptop are now in play.

00:42:10.341 --> 00:42:13.920
Today’s battery chemistries can only be charged so quickly,

00:42:13.920 --> 00:42:17.264
and how fast you can do that changes based on a number of factors,

00:42:17.264 --> 00:42:21.283
most prominently how charged the battery currently is.

00:42:21.283 --> 00:42:27.556
Right now it’s common for car manufacturers
to give a 10% to 80% charge time.

00:42:27.556 --> 00:42:35.477
My car manages that in 25 minutes at a 150 kW charger, and
18 on a 350 kW charger.

00:42:35.477 --> 00:42:42.327
Beyond 80% state of charge, charging speed drops quite a lot because,
 for physics and chemistry reasons,

00:42:42.327 --> 00:42:46.215
it becomes a lot harder to push electrons into the battery cells.

00:42:46.215 --> 00:42:53.990
I’ve seen a few folks fixate on this and even view it as some sort of cheating
or false advertising on the part of automakers but,

00:42:53.990 --> 00:42:55.797
well here’s the thing.

00:42:55.797 --> 00:42:59.463
You don’t actually need to top up every time you charge.

00:42:59.463 --> 00:43:06.090
It’s a huge waste of your time to get that last 20%
when there’s another charger 100 miles away.

00:43:06.090 --> 00:43:13.189
Sure, you’ll end up needing to charge more frequently since you’ll effectively only be using 70% of your range between stops,

00:43:13.189 --> 00:43:16.618
but in my car that’s still over 170 miles.

00:43:17.010 --> 00:43:22.819
Stopping for a 20 minute charge after every two and a half hours of driving isn’t nearly as bad as you might think.

00:43:22.819 --> 00:43:25.732
I legitimately quite enjoyed it,

00:43:25.800 --> 00:43:29.002
though to be fair my car charges exceptionally quickly.

00:43:29.002 --> 00:43:34.837
I’d be very surprised if just-as-fast-to-charge models
don’t become the norm pretty quickly, though.

00:43:34.837 --> 00:43:39.097
Many EVs will help you plan a route in their navigation software

00:43:39.097 --> 00:43:44.476
which optimizes for the least time required at chargers
based on their battery pack’s charging curve,

00:43:44.476 --> 00:43:48.923
although you can also play around with apps such as
A Better Route Planner if you’d like.

00:43:48.923 --> 00:43:52.821
Or if, like me, you have a car which just…

00:43:52.821 --> 00:43:55.306
doesn’t help with route planning.

00:43:55.306 --> 00:43:58.210
I’m not too bummed by my car’s omission there, though,

00:43:58.210 --> 00:44:06.975
because I fully expect DC fast charging stations along highway corridors to proliferate pretty quickly, and make that sort of planning ahead less necessary.

00:44:06.975 --> 00:44:13.931
However, there is one thing my car doesn’t really do, 
at least not yet, that it absolutely needs to:

00:44:13.931 --> 00:44:16.097
battery preconditioning.

00:44:16.097 --> 00:44:20.197
Today’s battery chemistries are happiest
within a certain temperature range.

00:44:20.197 --> 00:44:28.414
Nearly every EV on the market - even the original Chevy Volt -
has means to heat and cool the battery pack to keep it in its happy place.

00:44:28.414 --> 00:44:34.499
But when DC fast charging, to get the fastest possible speeds the battery cells need to be pretty warm -

00:44:34.499 --> 00:44:37.754
warmer than they otherwise need to be to drive.

00:44:37.754 --> 00:44:43.375
And in the winter, if the battery isn’t warm enough DC fast charging may be…

00:44:43.375 --> 00:44:45.075
not so fast.

00:44:45.075 --> 00:44:51.170
At least, not at first. Once the car realizes it’s on a fast charger
 it’ll start heating the pack up as fast as it can,

00:44:51.170 --> 00:44:55.687
but since the battery is so massive, that can take a while.

00:44:55.687 --> 00:45:01.115
You could easily see a 20 to 30 minute increase in charging time when it’s cold out.

00:45:01.115 --> 00:45:07.615
Certain EVs, notably Teslas and a few others as well, will start expending energy to warm up their battery packs

00:45:07.615 --> 00:45:10.517
as you approach a DC fast charger.

00:45:10.517 --> 00:45:17.264
This battery preconditioning allows them to accept maximum power, or close to it anyway, as soon as it’s plugged in.

00:45:17.264 --> 00:45:22.622
This is an important feature that needs to roll out to all EVs, in my opinion.

00:45:22.622 --> 00:45:31.776
Frankly I don’t care if it’s as fancy as Tesla's or Porsche’s implementation where it knows you’re headed to a fast charger because you’re navigating to one -

00:45:31.776 --> 00:45:37.740
as a matter of fact I kinda don’t like that as someone
who navigates with Waze using Android Auto.

00:45:37.740 --> 00:45:41.567
I’d rather there just be a button I can
press or a voice command I can give

00:45:41.567 --> 00:45:44.865
when I’m 15 miles or so from the next charger.

00:45:44.865 --> 00:45:50.527
But I do appreciate how the automated schemes
would keep me from forgetting to do that.

00:45:50.527 --> 00:45:54.691
With all this said, the biggest issue with DC fast charging today

00:45:54.691 --> 00:45:57.690
is that we barely have enough chargers right now.

00:45:57.690 --> 00:46:04.846
Already some popular corridors are experiencing charging queues, 
and this will get worse as more EVs are sold.

00:46:04.846 --> 00:46:10.545
The good news of course is more EVs that are sold
means there’s more demand for chargers,

00:46:10.545 --> 00:46:12.955
but we’re in the midst of growing pains.

00:46:12.955 --> 00:46:21.561
Like, for instance, charger reliability is a growing concern, and some network operators are less-than-great at operating their networks.

00:46:21.561 --> 00:46:28.858
My personal belief is that a lot of this comes from the fact that DC fast charging technician is a very rare job title right now,

00:46:28.858 --> 00:46:33.086
and with the current makeup of sparsely-spaced chargers,

00:46:33.086 --> 00:46:36.991
getting to them when they need parts or repair is a chore.

00:46:36.991 --> 00:46:43.490
I don’t mean to use this as an excuse, but it does make me fairly confident
this will get better with time.

00:46:43.490 --> 00:46:45.584
But let’s move on from DC fast charging

00:46:45.584 --> 00:46:49.328
and finish up with some pointers on factors which affect your driving range.

00:46:51.248 --> 00:46:54.838
♫ Music ♫

00:46:57.345 --> 00:47:03.970
I’ve brought it up a few times already but if you live in a cold place,
in winter driving range drops.

00:47:03.970 --> 00:47:09.540
And I’d like to tell you it’s just a little bit,
but unfortunately it can be significant.

00:47:09.540 --> 00:47:13.178
I do want to stress again, though, that with today’s EVs,

00:47:13.178 --> 00:47:21.535
so long as your commute is reasonable and you have access to a charger at home, these range losses are unlikely to impact your day to day needs.

00:47:21.535 --> 00:47:25.960
They will extend charging time and cause you to spend a little
more money on charging,

00:47:25.960 --> 00:47:32.364
but when you are only driving an average of 40 or even 80 miles a day,
it’s not a big deal.

00:47:32.364 --> 00:47:35.378
Long distance driving does have some challenges, though.

00:47:35.378 --> 00:47:40.019
You might want to ask, why does this cold-weather range loss happen?

00:47:40.019 --> 00:47:45.531
Well, a huge part of the range loss comes from using the cabin heat.

00:47:45.531 --> 00:47:53.009
In a combustion vehicle, the explodey machine under the hood is so bad at turning chemical energy into mechanical energy

00:47:53.009 --> 00:47:56.672
that it ends up with all this waste heat it needs to get rid of.

00:47:56.672 --> 00:48:02.974
There’s literal explosions happening over a thousand times per minute,
and explosions are hot.

00:48:02.974 --> 00:48:07.524
Dealing with that heat is what the car’s cooling system and radiator is for,

00:48:07.524 --> 00:48:13.865
and by running a second circuit of engine coolant into the cabin and through a small radiator called the heater core,

00:48:13.865 --> 00:48:18.190
the excess heat from the combustion can be used to keep you warm.

00:48:18.190 --> 00:48:21.416
Since it would otherwise be wasted, it’s free heat.

00:48:21.416 --> 00:48:25.632
Electric vehicles, though, don’t produce much waste heat at all.

00:48:25.632 --> 00:48:29.047
This is cool! It’s why the world is excited about them,

00:48:29.047 --> 00:48:32.728
they’re just much, much, much more energy-efficient.

00:48:32.728 --> 00:48:38.810
But that means that when you want to warm
the cabin, you have to take energy out of the battery pack.

00:48:38.810 --> 00:48:42.219
And that leaves you with less for driving the car.

00:48:42.219 --> 00:48:48.196
With an EV that has a resistive cabin heater, you’ll start to notice range dropping around mid-fall.

00:48:48.196 --> 00:48:51.471
Basically as soon as you start needing to use the heater.

00:48:51.471 --> 00:48:58.531
It will be pretty mild at first, but once you’re into the true winter months,
you can expect about 30% range loss.

00:48:58.531 --> 00:49:09.283
My family’s 2017 Chevy Bolt went from reliably hitting 230 miles of highway range in the summer down to between 160 and 170 from December to early March.

00:49:09.283 --> 00:49:13.585
Using seat heaters more and cabin heat less can help,

00:49:13.585 --> 00:49:18.342
but whenever you need to use your defroster
you’re kinda stuck running the heat.

00:49:18.342 --> 00:49:24.316
Unless of course you have one of those cool direct-heated
windshields, a feature I think should be standard on EVs!

00:49:24.316 --> 00:49:29.204
Speaking of features, one feature that’s finally spreading to more and more EVs is,

00:49:29.204 --> 00:49:30.821
drumroll please,

00:49:30.821 --> 00:49:32.510
HEAT PUMPS!

00:49:32.510 --> 00:49:35.263
If you’re not familiar with this channel, I love heat pumps.

00:49:35.263 --> 00:49:37.521
They’re the hottest cool things around.

00:49:37.521 --> 00:49:45.866
By doing what essentially amounts to running an air conditioner backwards, you can collect and concentrate heat energy from outside and move it inside.

00:49:45.866 --> 00:49:49.182
And since pretty much every EV out there has air conditioning,

00:49:49.182 --> 00:49:52.191
making it reversible was an obvious next step.

00:49:52.191 --> 00:49:54.224
I don't know why it took so long.

00:49:54.224 --> 00:50:00.272
Doing this allows an EV to cut its energy consumption for cabin heat by up to 75%,

00:50:00.272 --> 00:50:04.499
as moving heat takes a lot less energy compared to creating heat.

00:50:04.499 --> 00:50:10.339
For the 2022 model year, Hyundai gave all-wheel-drive Ioniq 5 models a heat pump.

00:50:10.339 --> 00:50:15.776
I’m hoping they make that standard soon because let me tell you,
it makes a big difference.

00:50:15.776 --> 00:50:22.176
I took delivery of my car in February 
so I haven’t yet experienced the worst of the worst winter conditions,

00:50:22.176 --> 00:50:29.141
but from what I did get to see earlier in the year,
a 15 to 20% winter range drop seems fairly typical.

00:50:29.141 --> 00:50:37.028
When it gets extremely cold, the heat pump does need to be supplemented by a resistive heater so larger range drops are possible, though.

00:50:37.028 --> 00:50:44.593
Oh, and I’d like to dissuade fears of running out of battery juice
should you get stuck in traffic or worse stranded in a blizzard.

00:50:44.593 --> 00:50:48.707
The car’s heater needs to work a lot harder when you’re in motion

00:50:48.707 --> 00:50:54.380
because all that wind rushing against your car does a great job
of sucking heat right out of it.

00:50:54.380 --> 00:51:00.058
But when you’re slowed or stopped, that’s not happening.
At least, not nearly as much.

00:51:00.058 --> 00:51:02.341
In the Chevy Bolt you’ve seen some adventures in,

00:51:02.341 --> 00:51:07.952
which doesn’t have a heat pump, I noticed that when stationary, even in subzero temperatures,

00:51:07.952 --> 00:51:15.275
the car was only consuming between 1 and 2 kilowatts, with the occasional blip up to 3 kW, to keep the cabin and battery pack warm.

00:51:15.745 --> 00:51:20.356
So, even with only one third battery charge, 20 kWh,

00:51:20.356 --> 00:51:25.768
you could expect that car to keep you warm for
at least 5 hours, probably more,

00:51:25.768 --> 00:51:31.341
and you can easily stretch that just by turning the temperature
down and bundling up.

00:51:31.341 --> 00:51:35.645
Aside from winter, let’s talk about what
other things affect your range.

00:51:35.645 --> 00:51:40.148
Earlier I mentioned that highway driving is less efficient than stop-and-go.

00:51:40.148 --> 00:51:42.100
Why is that?

00:51:42.100 --> 00:51:44.280
Well, with all else being equal,

00:51:44.280 --> 00:51:49.902
the single greatest factor to driving efficiency in an EV is your average speed.

00:51:49.902 --> 00:51:55.126
See, as you go faster, your car has to work a lot harder to push itself through the air.

00:51:55.126 --> 00:52:02.242
As a matter of fact, wind resistance and rolling resistance are essentially the only two things working to slow your car.

00:52:02.242 --> 00:52:08.263
Both increase with vehicle speed, but the drag created by air is not a linear function -

00:52:08.263 --> 00:52:13.079
as a matter of fact when calculating drag force, velocity is squared.

00:52:13.079 --> 00:52:18.258
So the faster you go, the harder a motor needs to work to push your car the same distance,

00:52:18.258 --> 00:52:21.580
and the effect gets worse as speed increases.

00:52:21.580 --> 00:52:23.581
That’s not unique to EVs, of course.

00:52:23.581 --> 00:52:25.266
The same goes for any vehicle.

00:52:25.266 --> 00:52:31.122
But because the vehicle doesn’t use any energy when it’s
not actively trying to push itself forward,

00:52:31.122 --> 00:52:34.109
you don’t get the waste of an idling engine.

00:52:34.109 --> 00:52:40.855
Even better, regenerative braking allows the car to get back most of the excess energy it used to accelerate from a stop

00:52:40.855 --> 00:52:43.908
when you return to a stop or slow down.

00:52:43.908 --> 00:52:52.580
Regen braking and zero idling waste make average vehicle speed essentially the only factor when it comes to energy efficiency.

00:52:52.580 --> 00:52:56.147
That is of course until we talk about wind.

00:52:56.147 --> 00:52:59.157
When you’re driving into a 10 mile an hour headwind,

00:52:59.157 --> 00:53:05.902
the effect of the wind is exactly the same as if you were driving 10 miles an hour faster than you really are.

00:53:05.902 --> 00:53:10.218
So wind conditions can rather drastically affect your driving range.

00:53:10.218 --> 00:53:15.892
On the road trip I took with Aging Wheels, we started our journey driving right into a nasty headwind,

00:53:15.892 --> 00:53:24.109
which reduced my car’s efficiency from my typical average of 3.2 miles per kWh down to 2.4 miles per kWh.

00:53:24.109 --> 00:53:31.575
That was about a 25% increase in power consumption, and
thus resulted in a 25% drop in range from what I was expecting.

00:53:31.575 --> 00:53:33.563
In the end, this wasn’t a problem.

00:53:33.563 --> 00:53:39.783
Our route planner was being so conservative that we actually hit
the expected energy consumption almost exactly.

00:53:39.783 --> 00:53:47.554
And, here’s the other thing to keep in mind, if we absolutely needed to stretch our driving range there’s a really easy way to do it:

00:53:47.554 --> 00:53:49.403
just slow down.

00:53:49.403 --> 00:53:56.170
Thanks to that head wind, we experienced a range similar to if we were driving perhaps 90 or 95 miles an hour,

00:53:56.170 --> 00:53:58.795
even though we were really doing 70.

00:53:58.795 --> 00:54:07.107
While it’s obviously annoying, dropping to 55 or 60 miles an hour would immediately have stretched our driving range considerably.

00:54:07.107 --> 00:54:10.802
So if all else fails, just slow down.

00:54:10.802 --> 00:54:17.747
Wind, average vehicle speed, and cold weather
are definitely the three biggest factors that will impact your driving range.

00:54:17.747 --> 00:54:23.549
But what surprised me the most when I started driving electric 
was the impact of wet roads.

00:54:23.549 --> 00:54:30.672
Light to moderate rain doesn’t have too much of an effect, but when it’s raining heavily enough that water is pooling on road surfaces,

00:54:30.672 --> 00:54:38.033
the extra drag created as your tires work to push it
out of the way is much more substantial than I would have expected.

00:54:38.033 --> 00:54:45.510
The absolute worst driving conditions when it comes to range are windy wintry days with slushy road surfaces.

00:54:45.510 --> 00:54:50.916
Add enough snow to keep you using the defroster
and you have a recipe for heavy range loss.

00:54:50.916 --> 00:54:58.712
It’s for these reasons that I feel we need much more density in DC fast charging options along highway routes than we currently have

00:54:58.712 --> 00:55:01.123
or are planning for.

00:55:01.123 --> 00:55:10.239
50 miles apart is a decent target, and realistically even if I had a 75% range loss that would at least keep me on the road.

00:55:10.239 --> 00:55:14.118
But since driving range can be less predictable than is ideal,

00:55:14.118 --> 00:55:17.556
I hope to see far more DC charging options.

00:55:17.556 --> 00:55:21.643
If we keep driving cars on long trips at the rate we do now,

00:55:21.643 --> 00:55:28.432
we are eventually going to need as many charging stops along the highway routes as there are gas stations today.

00:55:28.432 --> 00:55:31.780
So there’s a lot of work to be done, to be sure.

00:55:31.780 --> 00:55:40.269
But perhaps my favorite thing about electric cars is the chicken-and-egg problem that normally comes with changing fuels is sidestepped.

00:55:40.269 --> 00:55:44.076
Those of us with home charging can get an electric car right now.

00:55:44.076 --> 00:55:49.001
It can take care of all of our daily needs and we don’t need to rely on public charging.

00:55:49.001 --> 00:55:54.658
And now that those vehicles exist, there’s a market for DC fast charging on highway routes.

00:55:54.658 --> 00:56:01.859
And when owners of today’s EVs sell them, less expensive options are on the market which encourages more adoption,

00:56:01.859 --> 00:56:08.320
and that will increase pressures to install charging infrastructure at apartment complexes and other hard-to-serve areas.

00:56:08.320 --> 00:56:15.416
There’s a lot of work to be done, and many would argue that electrifying cars is just trading one problem for another.

00:56:15.416 --> 00:56:22.521
And to be honest, I’m increasingly upset with how car-centric our infrastructure and cities tend to be.

00:56:22.521 --> 00:56:25.399
But frankly, right now I need a car.

00:56:25.399 --> 00:56:27.862
And I’m not gonna poo poo harm reduction.

00:56:27.862 --> 00:56:33.523
The fact is going electric is really quite easy once you understand the ins and outs.

00:56:33.523 --> 00:56:38.540
If you can run a wire to use a dryer you can charge a car and go real far.

00:56:38.540 --> 00:56:41.436
Now we just have to do it.

00:56:41.906 --> 00:56:43.377
Thanks for watching.

00:56:44.277 --> 00:56:46.760
♫ energetically smooth jazz ♫

00:56:47.896 --> 00:56:51.619
Hey, I’m gonna be recording an unscripted video on my second channel

00:56:51.619 --> 00:56:56.890
talking about some potential options for multi-family buildings
and other finicky-to-serve places.

00:56:56.890 --> 00:56:59.434
Clicky thing, link below, you know the drill.

00:57:00.962 --> 00:57:05.219
How to choose the right one for your… *sigh*

00:57:05.219 --> 00:57:07.725
didn’t get through the FIRST LINE!

00:57:07.725 --> 00:57:09.101
Here we go.

00:57:10.473 --> 00:57:11.584
What is happening?

00:57:12.211 --> 00:57:13.501
What... what is that?

00:57:14.676 --> 00:57:16.856
Oh, it’s velcro from the thing.

00:57:16.856 --> 00:57:17.634
Got it.

00:57:17.634 --> 00:57:19.659
Any car will work… eh,

00:57:19.659 --> 00:57:20.159
Bah!

00:57:20.159 --> 00:57:20.668
PEH!

00:57:20.834 --> 00:57:21.468
PLEH!

00:57:21.650 --> 00:57:22.529
BAH!

00:57:22.529 --> 00:57:24.875
…with different pack sizes to chooge from.

00:57:24.875 --> 00:57:25.675
Chooge?

00:57:25.675 --> 00:57:28.443
But again, getting my getting a… getting myself ahead of here?

00:57:28.443 --> 00:57:32.147
It puts a lot of wear and tear… oh no, I changed that on purpose you dingo!

00:57:33.831 --> 00:57:38.642
I hope those of you who like That Company aren't too put off by my suggestion that folks install a J1772 charger.

00:57:38.642 --> 00:57:42.275
It just seems to me that there's more value in the standard which benefits from industry cooperation

00:57:42.275 --> 00:57:45.862
than the one made by a single, if currently dominant, player.

00:57:46.841 --> 00:57:49.399
Don't like putting all me eggs in one basket, y'know.

